Gas boiler guide

Boiler not heating or showing an error code? What to check safely

A gas boiler that locks out, shows a code, or heats the water but not the radiators is usually telling you something specific. These checks help you gather that information safely. None of them involve opening the boiler, touching the gas supply, or working on the flue — that work belongs to a qualified technician.

Technician checking the controls of an open wall-mounted gas boiler in Tbilisi
01

If you smell gas, stop reading and act

Do not operate any switch, plug, doorbell or light, and do not use a phone inside the building. Turn the gas off at the meter if you can reach it safely, open the windows, get everyone out, and call the emergency gas service or 112 from outside. Only contact us once the gas service has made the property safe. The same applies to a smell of burning, smoke, or soot marks around the boiler casing.

02

Photograph the code before you reset

Most boilers show a fault code on the display. Photograph it first. Resetting clears the code, and a boiler that has been reset five times tells a technician far less than one photo of the original fault. If the boiler locks out again straight after a reset, stop resetting — a repeated lockout is a protection device doing its job, not a glitch.

03

Read the pressure gauge

Find the pressure gauge on the front or underside of the boiler and note the reading while the system is cold. Most domestic systems sit around 1 to 1.5 bar. A reading near zero often explains a boiler that will not fire, and a gauge that keeps falling week after week points to a leak somewhere in the system. Photograph the gauge and tell us the number rather than repressurising repeatedly — the refill hides the real fault.

04

Note which half of the system fails

Hot water at the taps but cold radiators, or warm radiators but no hot water, narrows the cause dramatically. Before you call, check that the room thermostat is calling for heat, that any programmer or timer is set for the current hour, and that the radiator valves are open. In summer, a heating fault often goes unnoticed until autumn — worth testing before the season starts.

05

Check the condensate pipe in cold weather

Condensing boilers drain through a plastic pipe that often runs outside. In a Tbilisi cold snap it can freeze and shut the boiler down, usually with a specific code. If you can see the pipe from a safe position at ground level, note whether it is frozen or blocked. Do not climb, lean out of a window, or work at height to inspect it, and do not pour boiling water over pipework.

06

Record what we will ask for anyway

Have the make and model from the label on the boiler casing, the exact fault code, the pressure reading, when the problem began, whether it is intermittent or constant, and the date of the last service. Photos of the display and the gauge, plus a short video of any unusual noise, will often let us bring the right part on the first visit.

Frequently asked questions

Frequently asked questions

Send the make, model, fault code and pressure reading, and we will review it before the visit.

01My boiler keeps losing pressure — can I just keep topping it up?

Repeated topping up masks the cause. Pressure that falls over days or weeks usually means a leak in the system or a failed expansion vessel, and both need attention rather than another refill.

02Is it safe to reset a boiler that has locked out?

One reset is normal practice. If it locks out again immediately, stop — the lockout is a safety device responding to a real fault, and repeated resets can make the problem worse.

03I have hot water but the radiators are cold. Is that the boiler?

Not always. It can be the thermostat, the programmer, a diverter valve, or the pump. Telling us which half of the system works saves a great deal of diagnostic time.

04How often should a gas boiler be serviced?

Once a year is the usual guidance, ideally before the heating season. A service also catches the small faults that become winter breakdowns.

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